Days 15 thru 23

(Dan’s comments are italicized)

Having introduced Frank in the last post, there’s one more thing to know about him; Frank is a super tracker! He’s a whiz at finding tracks, being able to tell how long ago they were made, and going into the bush, off the beaten track, to find them.

But that’s not all he could track; we had been watching some African Wild Dogs one evening after sunset and then followed a spotted hyena for a while before heading back to camp.

It was dark…so the trainee guide was devastated to realize her bifocal glasses had fallen from the truck somewhere along the way. Frank told her not to worry as he’d find them in the morning. We thought he was crazy and that he stood a snowball’s chance in hell of finding them; but find them he did!!! I would like to emphasize that there is a LOT of grass EVERYWHERE!!! And Frank had taken us off-trail to see these animals. I’ve lost large frizbees in grass half as short and in an area the size of a pickleball court. I have no idea how he was able to see a pair of glasses in an area the size of the Okavango Delta!?! 🤯🤯🤯

Happy campers!

But wait, there’s more. About half an hour later, I asked Dan for my phone (his was stolen so he was using mine for the camera)…and he realized he didn’t have it any more. In fairness to me, I remained calm on the outside!!!! Frank immediately turned the truck around and sped back toward camp. Remember that snowball?? Frank did it again; somewhere along the way he slammed on the brakes and there, at the side of the dirt road, deep in some grass, was my phone!!!! I was devastated that I was responsible for another lost phone. Frank is a man that has the eyes of an eagle, and the intuition of a dog. I place so much trust in him that I am virtually fearless. I really believe that if I had randomly thrown my wallet out of the truck and told him later that day that I had lost it, he would have found it buried in the mud 30 minutes later, he is that good. I cannot thank him enough for saving me from my stupidity of losing another phone.

Back to ‘normal’ tracking. The most exciting were a pack of 7 African Wild Dogs (which are highly endangered), a solo male lion, and a group of 3 male lions (which Frank tracked on 3 separate occasions!)

The red is impala blood from the kill the previous night. Yuck!

These beautiful creatures are horribly vicious; they tear away at the prey’s flesh even as they’re running away.

The dog in the middle is wearing a tracking collar; they’re so endangered that wildlife agencies are tracking each pack to try to save them from extinction.
The next big runway model??
This one is heavily pregnant; I’m certain she’ll be followed very carefully.

I felt such affinity with our first lion; he was old and limped along (I think he had arthritis 😂). It was sad but though he was obviously  very hungry, even the zebra watched his approach without running away. The unique aspect of this lion is not only that he was not splayed out sleeping, but that we were the only people to track and watch him for almost an hour!

I felt a bit bad taking photos while he was pooping but that facial expression was too good to ignore!

It made me sad that it comes to this for all…even the king of the jungle!

The next 3 lions were much younger and stronger. Because of Frank’s tracking expertise, we had time alone with the handsome creatures before any other car arrived.

Following the lions…
wherever they may go!
These 3 are very bonded and are probably from the same pride. They’ll remain bonded until they fight (and beat) a male with a pride; then they’ll fight each other to see which of them gets to lead the pride.
They’re just big pussy-cats really…
…though a bit scary!

Amazingly, Frank found them again the following morning!

We followed them around…
as they marked their territory.
But it must have been exhausting work…
as they soon needed a stretch,
and a good (lazy) scratch before taking a well-deserved rest!

And as the predators slept, some of the prey could relax and feast.

Waterbuck
Kudu
Red Lechwe
Sable
Buffalo
Wildebeest and tsessebe
Waterbuck and impala

The cats are Dan’s favorite animals, but tomorrow I’ll be sharing mine…elephant and giraffe.

We had spent over three hours watching the three males during the course of the day. But we spent the evening in camp listening to the warning cries of all the animals that had to continue their vigilance. I had never heard the sharp cries of baboons, the wailing warnings of elephants or the whooting calls of hippos before. I think every animal was aware of the danger, so I don’t think the lions got a meal that night!

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7 responses to “Okavango Experience: Part 1”

  1. fsrileya907681be2 Avatar
    fsrileya907681be2

    Love the Pictures! And, thanks for labeling the animals.

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    1. Dr. Rhia Avatar

      You’re welcome, Francis. There are so many different antelope here that it can get very confusing!

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  2. Cathy Avatar
    Cathy

    I am enjoying your travels!!!!

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    1. Dr. Rhia Avatar

      Thanks, Cathy. We love it here…I’m a bit surprised that Dan seems to love it as much as I do!.

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  3. nitaschwartz57 Avatar
    nitaschwartz57

    As always, the pictures are amazing. The wild dogs, but especially the younger lions. The one picture was so close I could see his eyebrow hairs. Awesome!

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    1. Dr. Rhia Avatar

      Thanks, Nita. You can see a fly on a lion’s face in today’s photos. So glad you’re coming along with us on this adventure.

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  4. Dr. Rhia Avatar

    It was an incredible experience! Later, I’ll try to remember to post a photo of a fly on one of their foreheads…!

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