Days 75 thru 78

(Rhia’s comments are italicized)

We stayed for three nights in the capital of eSwatini, Mbabane, in a lovely little guesthouse that had 4 avocado trees. Each breakfast they served us included a full ‘avo’ picked from those trees!

African capitals are different; they’re more like big villages because, other than bigger supermarkets and some mall-type shops and some clinics, nothing else is different. We were in search of local culture so, despite staying in the capital, we drove down the mountain each day to experience the Swati culture. At each place we visited, there were very few tourists, but loads of school students! Which seemed strange with our first stop, a candle making shop?

As we’ve been digging more into the local culture, we’ve been learning about some heartbreaking things. For example, 26% of the Swati people are still HIV positive (it’s the highest incidence rate in the world!) Part of the problem is that rape is still an acceptable (though frowned-upon) part of the culture! We also learned that educational problems such as dyslexia are believed to exist because someone put a hex on the family member…so they deal with it by praying and trying to cast out the demons!

The Matenga Cultural Village was also flush with emptied school buses. The village featured a 45 minute performance of different traditional songs and dances. They held this in a huge thatch covered hut that could seat 200 people. Over 100 primary school students took their seats, and were the quietest children I have ever witnessed. They were even well behaved during the performance, clapping along to the rhythm of the singers. The dancing was electrifying, with the performers simultaneously stomping so hard on the ground that I could feel it.

After the show, we took a guided tour of the homestead. We thought all the huts were part of a village, but they were all part of the household, consisting of a generational family. Three huts each for both of the man’s wives (one that served as a bedroom, one that served as a kitchen, and one was for making beer), three for the grandmother, one for himself (and girlfriend), a hut for girls and one for boys (as, when they turn 6 they move out of the mother’s  hut), and one for each of the married, adult children. The women tend to spend time around the grandmothers hut, and all the men around a fire pit next to the cattle corrals. Each hut takes weeks to build. They even have a medicine man hut with all the medical herbs.

According to culture, the first hut inside the compound is the girls’ sleeping quarters. The reasoning is that if intruders break in, they are distracted by ‘being amorous with’ (read ‘raping’) the older girls so the younger girls can run to warn their father and brothers about the intruders! Talk about sacrificing the kids (and females not ‘owning’ their own bodies!)

I was not surprised when I saw over 50 students at the national museum, but I was surprised that we were the only non-locals there. I think the most fascinating exhibit of the museum was the art work.

We also visited a craft making village. Sadly, there is not a lot of non-farm industry in the country, so individuals are trained on how to craft products. These crafts all look the same, and are displayed at table after table. It’s overwhelming to see stall after stall selling the same thing; how do you decide from whom to buy?

We visited Mlilwane National Park, also. Though the park was beautiful, the animals were sparse and the roads were a little rough for a 2×4! I think we’ve realized we need a 4×4 next time!

I have been feeling a little bit of travel weariness, so we decided to leave eSwatini and make the long drive back to S. Africa to the beaches around Durban, and spend a few nights at a beach side apartment. We drove past many people in traditional garb…

…and saw some spectacular skies on our way to the border.

Once again, we were extremely lucky in that the border process was painless and quick! Remarkably, four pages of my new passport are full already!

The six hour journey afforded enough time for lots of thinking. I’m mulling, once again, about how we have too much time on our hands in the west so create problems where they don’t exist. Or are we just further along on the continuum of problems so are able to focus on less prevalent ones? I’m certain of one thing; we are so fortunate to be born in the Western world. If I could give today’s youth one gift, it would be to truly understand that good fortune, in the depths of their souls, so that they don’t squander the privilege! 

Upon arrival at the beachhouse, and unlike the border, the check-in process turned into a nightmare! When we finally got to the key box open, the remote and key were missing. So we got upgraded! 🎉🤩🥳 The break was sorely needed. We left the sliding door open and fell asleep to the crashing of the Indian Ocean both nights.

I love crashing waves so…

The rest was invigorating, and something my mind was sorely in need of. But there’s more to see and do so, once again, it’s onward we go; we’re starting to feel the pressure of time (we leave Africa 4 weeks tomorrow!) Three and a half months just isn’t long enough!