Days 64 thru 66

(Rhia’s comments are italicized)

Leaving Botswana, we boarded a bus, and traveled back to where we started, O.B. Tambo airport. Not to fly in an airplane, but to rent a car and tour South Africa!!! 😃 But even before boarding the bus, we were talking with a fellow passenger and discovered she was an artist whose work we had admired at the National Museum in Gaborone!

After we picked up the car, we high-tailed it east out of Johannesburg, toward Kruger National Park, with a few pitstops along the way.

What has struck me while driving in South Africa is that there is far more infrastructure than any of the countries we have visited so far. The cities are also much grander. But the destitution is also seems much greater. Cloverdene is one example of this disparity.

After leaving Johannesburg, though, the countryside turned into stunning vistas, rolling hills, large forests, running rivers, and large lakes. S. Africa is certainly more industrialized than Botswana and Namibia and the amount of agriculture we’ve passed is impressive!

One of our stays was alongside the Crocodile River (sadly no crocodiles).

This was our room ($40 per night)
And this is the view from our bed!!

I took a solo journey from there to the oldest known cave in the world, Sudwala Caves. The caves formed 240 million years ago and were home to prehistoric people as far back as 2.5 million years ago. More recently, the caves were used as a fortress by the Swazi heir apparent in the 19th century. Many battles were fought at the mouth of the cave, but none succeeded in killing him. They even tried building a huge bonfire at the entrance to smoke him out (evidenced by the huge smoke marks there), but the natural air flow of the cave pushed the smoke out. An amphitheatre was constructed in the largest chamber of the cave, about 70 meters in diameter and 37 meters high, and can seat 500 people. The acoustics of the chamber prevent echoing, and many high profile performers have played there. I visited on a very slow day so I was given a solo tour. We walked in about 600 meters to the beginning of the cave where the water originally penetrated the earth. There is an optional 5 hour tour that lets people crawl about in the mud for an additional 2000 meters, but I chose to stay clean.

Cave entrance to Sudwala Caves
The grey, fake looking stone is dolomite.
The strings hanging down are actually tree roots that have worked their way down through seemingly solid stone!!

After touring the cave, I stopped at a butterfly garden. Being that it is winter here, there were no butterflies, but the nature walk did have some unnaturally sized exhibits.

I didn’t go to the cave because, the day after the conference, I came down with flu/Covid/?? Because I’ve had pleurisy and pneumonia, flu-type illnesses go straight to my chest! Thankfully, our dentist friend sends us on our travels with antibiotics (which I started taking immediately) so, although I currently feel horrible, I hope to be better soon!

While Dan was gone, I walked around the property and took photos of cacti that could have been growing in our yard at home!

Continuing east from there we drove through millions of acres of orchards of various fruits and nuts. True to Africa, there were many stands alongside the roads selling bags of citrus fruits, bananas, or nuts. I now understand why every store that I have visited in Africa has bananas. We stopped at an actual store that sold all of this produce, as well as displaying these magnificent solid wood sculptures.

This sculpture is about a foot taller than me
Dan feeling short!/
Dan Bigelow makes his debut

Quick aside, the malls here are actually busy. We happened across two gentlemen engaged in a rather large game of chess

Our destination was always the gateway city to Kruger National Park, Hazyview. However, we had to rearrange our travel plans a bit (as much as we have travel plans 😂) as the bug Rhia picked up leaves her a bit winded. That’s an understatement…it’s hard to breathe! We were going to take a scenic route today along a beautiful road; Dan was excited as we could go tobogganing somewhere along the way. I gently reminded him that all I wanted to do was lie in bed to get better! At least, I think the reminder was gentle 😁 We’ll do that scenic route another day (when the thought of tobogganing doesn’t make my aching body weep at the thought of adding more pain to my day!)

I thought you may be interested in seeing the prices of food; there are 18 rand to the $1 so a burger and chips costs less than $3!

Our room in Hazyview isn’t beautiful but it’s functional and has a little kitchen…and at $28 per night, we can’t complain!

Dr. Rhia Avatar

Published by

Categories:

4 responses to “South Africa -The Beginning”

  1. cebdent Avatar
    cebdent

    How fun to meet the artist whose work you had admired! So sorry to hear you’ve caught a “bug”, Rhia! That’s no fun! God on Dan for checking out the cave – that was pretty impressive – especially the tree roots! Talk about persistence! The cactus plants you photographed do indeed look like they could be here in AZ, Rhia. I don’t suppose there’s a chance of bringing any back with you though, is there?

    South Africa looks a LOT more verdant and prosperous and I have to wonder what it feels like in the cities for those people living on the boundaries between really poor and not so bad off. The picture looks like there’s ony a few feet separating the dwellings!

    Where does one toboggan in the summertime in Africa?!? That was a surprise destination/event! And I apologize for not knowing the connection between Dan Bigelow and South Africa even though I see the reference to agriculture. Did he do a consult there or something? I love that you keep me learning in addition to simply enjoying the adventures you’re having!

    Take care, be well – keep writing! Love ya both!

    Like

    1. Dr. Rhia Avatar

      S Africa feels so different to Botswana and Namibia! There’s a wacky feeling to it that I can’t put my finger on yet and there’s certainly a disparity in wealth! But I love seeing running water again…and look forward to seeing the ocean soon!
      Dan Bigelow has no connection to S Africa, but he’s been with us every step of this journey. I’m not quite sure why Dan posted his photo last time 😂 Sending love. 😘

      Like

  2. nitaschwartz57 Avatar
    nitaschwartz57

    Sorry you got sick. Enjoy South Africa, I loved it

    Like

    1. Dr. Rhia Avatar

      Thanks Nita…not sure whether I’m glad I had all those vacations before coming as they didn’t seem to work 😂

      Like

Leave a comment