Days 12 and 13

(Dan’s comments are italicized)

Part 1: A Pilgrimage

I lived/traveled in Africa in 1986-88 and, upon leaving, would often find myself telling people I’d left a piece of my heart on this amazing continent. Today, I left another piece of my heart here.

Because of her heritage, Rachael was eager to visit Africa and I’d promised to take her sometime to show her some of the places I loved. Sadly, that was not to be; instead, Dan and I brought some of our child’s ashes with us to spread at Victoria Falls.

And so, today, we did.

We walked along the bridge spanning the Zambezi River (one end in Zimbabwe, and the other in Zambia) and stopped at a spot on the Zambian side where there was a pretty view of the falls. There, we spent time with our thoughts, then let Rachael fly free in a place she would have loved.

It is said that when your child dies, you lose him or her over and over; we certainly lost Rachael again today.

Fly free, my beautiful girl! 💖

Part 2: Victoria Falls

Kasane, Botswana, is in a part of Africa where four countries meet (Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia, and Namibia). Thus, we decided to take a day trip to the Victoria Falls.

I must make a side note here; although many aspects of Africa remain as I remembered, some have changed drastically! For example, the one-day visa to Zimbabwe to see the falls cost $30 US each. Entrance into the falls was $50 US each. When I was here last, there was no entrance fee (or entrance, for that matter) and I’m not sure that I had to pay for visas either. The same has happened with game parks. I worry that, soon, Africa will only be accessible to the rich and that would be such a shame.

But back to Vic Falls. So often, it’s weird how things happen. Today, I started chatting with a man at a hotel, whilst we were waiting for some other Vic Falls passengers, and he turned out to be the Chinese Ambassador to Botswana. He was escorting a group of inspectors from China who were here for a final inspection of the government school built in Kasane by the Chinese through China Aid. Dan and I were invited to tour the school the next day and we eagerly accepted!

The border crossings went without mishap and we were soon at Vic Falls. To my astonishment, there is now a thriving tourist (read expensive) town where, previously, there were a handful of people hawking their goods from a sarong laid on the dirt ground. Thankfully, my fears that the experience of seeing these incredible falls would be ruined by tourism were unfounded. Other than paved paths having replaced the dirt ones,  the area of the falls themselves had been pretty much left alone.

Other than a handful of creatures, however, the wild animals have moved to greener, less touristy, pastures.

What can I say about the falls? Photos don’t do them justice! They’re breath-taking, awe-inspiring, majestic, and humbling. I was pleased that guides and information placards don’t say that Livingston ‘discovered’ the falls, but that he was the first Westerner to see them and that he shared the information with the world. After all, it’s really not like the indigenous people could have missed them! It’s easy to understand why they’re one of the 7 Natural Wonders of the World! At a viewing point in the center of the falls, I could stand close enough to the edge to see the falls top to bottom. I was sucked into the illusion feeling like I was rising into the air. Unfortunately, a picture cannot capture that sensation.

Part 3: Moving On

The school built by the Chinese is amazing! The lead architect was extremely proud, and rightly so. Sadly, even though the building is top-notch, they’re planning for 40 students to a class (which means more will be squeezed in!)

And then we were on the road again. Once more, the border crossings went smoothly and we were soon in Namibia. I am still a little unfamiliar with border crossings. Everything seems serious and devoid of humor. There was one man who was very proud of his stamp, though. Every person required two stamps. He used every opportunity to enthusiastically slam his stamp onto an ink pad and then with equal force, onto the page. It was a scene pulled straight out of a comedy. The road signs continue to amuse us…

Because we don’t want to drive in the dark, we stopped at Kongola and found a little guest house at the side of the road. The place leaves a bit to be desired…but what can we expect for $11? Tonight will be an effort in team work to move in tandem when turning over, and while sleeping… wish us luck.

Things looked up, however, when these were brought to our door…

The bed is too small and too hard (you may call me Goldilocks henceforth) so I suspect we’ll get an early start tomorrow. Where to, you ask? Don’t know but, hopefully, it’ll be somewhere with a bed that’s ‘just right’!